A Day Exploring the Sights of Colonia La Condesa

On our first full-day in Mexico City, the first thing we did was walk to the nearest bank, Banco Santander on Avenida Tamaulipas, which was only about a 5-minute walk from our apartment, to withdraw some pesos of different denominations. Then we walked to the nearest Super Mercado, Soriana Hiper Tacubaya, which was about a 10-minute walk from our appointment in the other direction. Since we had never had a full kitchen during our previous stays in Mexico, we decided to do our first full-fledge shopping trip in a Mexican Super Mercado; we bought a 12-pack of bottled water, Jumex Jugo de Durazno (peach juice), Jumex Jugo de Mango (mango juice), 2 fresh mangoes, a pink grapefruit, several apples, a couple of tangerines, a melon, Greek yogurt, along with a couple of fresh Mexican pastries from the bakery & Microdyn with which to wash the fruit & vegetables. Needless to say, our backpacks were very full on the walk back to our apartment.

Colonia La Condesa

Colonia La Condesa is in the Cuauhtémoc Borough of Mexico City. It is immediately west of Colonia La Roma Norte, but it is also central to the upscale Polanco neighborhood and the renown Centro Histórico district, in addition to being right next to the famous Bosque Chapultepec. Yet, with all of its tree-lined streets & avenues, its many promenades (camellones), numerous parks, and green public spaces, it feels worlds away from the hustle & bustle of Centro Histórico. La Condesa was not established until very early in the 20th century, when wealthy people began moving out of El Centro, looking for more space and more green. La Condesa was also home to Mexico's biggest cinematic stars of the 1940's and'1950's.

Today La Condesa has a very "cool" & "trendy" vibe. The bohemian district is filled with restaurants, cafes, boutiques, shops, & art galleries. It is very popular with young businesspeople, students, foreigners, expats, & pet lovers.

One of the primary draws of La Condesa is simply the beauty of its streets. It is made up of wide avenues and streets, which are lined with huge trees that form a thick canopy above the streets. There are more trees in this district than in any other part of the city. Quite a few of the major thoroughfares have park-like promenades with lots of trees, bushes, & flowers that run the entire length of the median of the streets, with frequent spacing of park benches for people to stop & rest, or read. The wide central pedestrian meridians are called camellones. The street on which our apartment was located had such a promenade (camellón); it was utilized both day & night. I loved watching city life on the camellón from our apartment windows.

In this picture, you can see how dense & lush the foliage gets in the promenades (camellones)

A shot of my favorite leaning palm tree on Avenida Tamaulipas' camellón, near our favorite breakfast haunt, Perfida Bistro Cafe & the Banco Santander that we frequented for more pesos

Another street with a promenade (camellón) that we passed on our way to La Condesa's Avenida Ámsterdam, Parque Mexico, & Parque España

An example of the park benches that were on the camellones at frequent intervals, so that people stop & rest, people-watch, or read. We also saw a fair amount of couples in love canoodling on them.

City workers came weekly to clean the camellones, as well as weed, water, and care for the plants & trees on the camellón. Local police regularly patrolled the promenades (camellones) on the weekends, so you always felt safe, no matter the time of day. This all makes La Condesa a veritable haven for walkers, joggers, strollers , & and people with dogs. I have never seen such well-behaved dogs; we never encountered any barking or misbehaving dogs in our 2-week stay (& we saw a lot of dogs out & about...and all dogs were on a leash!)

City workers weeding, watering, & caring for the plants & trees in the Camellón in front of our condominium

One of the city workers weeding, watering & caring for the trees & plants on Calle Alfonso Reyes' promenade (camellón). I don't know why he was wearing a mask

City workers, weeding, watering, & caring for the plants & trees in the camellón right in front of our apartment on Calle Alfonso Reyes. Shortly thereafter, a big water truck came by, with a guy on top manning a big hose & spraying all of the bushes & plants on the camellón with water, but unfortunately, I was not thinking & did not get a picture. I guess they do not use sprinkler systems??

The 2 policemen, who patrolled the section of Calle Alfonso Reyes' promenade in front of our apartment building. We saw them often enough that I began to be able to recognize them. Definitely a good example of community policing!

A shot of 2 other policemen, patrolling a camellón. Note that both photos were taken in broad daylight...& La Condesa is a very safe community to begin with. It would be akin to patrolling the parks of Lake Oswego. Another very good example of community policing & integration into the community.

Sometimes their neighborhood police presence can be a bit overwhelming. This shot was taken early one morning while we were having breakfast at Perfida Bistro Cafe. These 3 policeman drove up, and 2 of them appeared to go in the bank entryway to use the ATM, while the 3rd policeman (with a facemask) stood guard outside with his rifle??? This is the our Banco Santander that we used to withdraw pesos during our visit

While the streets of La Condesa are gorgeous, the buildings that line them are even better. The architecture is varied with many beautifully-restored & stunning Art Deco & Art Noveau buildings.

I loved the paint job on this house!!

La Condesa is also known for its brightly-colored houses

I liked this green-colored house that we passed

I absolutely loved the brick accents on this house!!

The next 2 pictures are of the same house. I loved the detail in the window & door trim...only in Mexico!!

What I would give for ornate door trim like this!

Another elegant house on our walk down to Avenida Ámsterdam, Parque Mexico, & Parque España

The Famous Oval-Shaped Avenida Ámsterdam: A Former Hipódromo (Horse-Racing Track)

After putting our snacks & drinks away in our apartment, we got ready to explore La Condesa. We first walked to the famous oval-shaped Avenida Ámsterdam, which, in a past life, was a horse-racing track (or hipódromo).

In the core of Barrio La Condesa in the very early 20th century, there used to be a prominent horse racing track, called the Hipódromo de la Condesa. Built in 1910 by the elite Jockey Club de México, it operated for a short time, until the start of the Mexican Revolution. Then it was repurposed for various events, including sports and military activities.

In the early 20th century, the Jockey Club purchased a portion of this land and built a horse racing track, which explains the park’s oval shape. By the end of the Mexican Revolution, the route where horses once galloped for the entertainment of Mexico City’s elite ceased operations. The developers, who bought the former racetrack in 1927 were bound by a contract, stipulating that 60,000 square meters of the property had to be converted into a public park; thus Parque México was born. The area around the park began to be transformed into the neighborhood, now known as Colonia Hipódromo; the racetrack's oval shape influenced the layout of the neighborhood and the surrounding streets, including Avenida Ámsterdam. The classic oval shape, where horses once pounded the turf. still defines the area. The center space of the former racetrack (the center of the oval) became El Parque México, which is surrounded by Avenida México. Around that, presumably where ladies in hats and men with cigars and fists full of pesos for betting used to sit and watch the racing thoroughbreds, runs Avenida Ámsterdam.

Many of the buildings that line Avenida Ámsterdam were built after the 1920's. The area is rich in Art Deco and Streamline Moderne style with some newer higher-rise apartment buildings. It is one of the the best places to see La Condesa's renown Art Deco and Art Noveau architecture. La Condesa has been a trendy part of the city since the early 20th century, when wealthy people began moving out of El Centro, looking for more space and more green. Today, Parque México is not only the center of Colonia Hipódromo, it is also the cultural center of the entire La Condesa section of the city.

The neighborhood is mostly still residential, but there are several chic shops, as well as small businesses, like the tailor, the dry cleaner, the electrical repair shop, and the flower stall.

Since the street still runs in an oval, just as it did in its racetrack days, it is impossible to get lost while walking around Avenida Ámsterdam. It has a leafy, tree-lined promenade (camellón) in the median of the avenue, making it very lovely and peaceful to stroll around. Even on a hot day, it is cool and pleasant in the shade of the elms, alders, oaks, palms, and rubber trees. In the Spring, the jacaranda trees create purple clouds of blossoms drifting above the camellón.  

Avenida Ámsterdam is a broad 2-way street with a promenade (camellón) running up the center of the street. The camellón is lined with plant beds and trees, Art-Deco style benches, and the odd sculpture here and there. It is popular with doe-eyed young couples, new mothers with strollers, runners, walkers, & dogs with their owners. The benches attract people watchers, young lovers, readers, and cell phone gazers. Work-out stations invite fitness connoisseurs to come under the trees, & work out. Avenida Amsterdam is also café society central, so you will never go hungry or thirsty on the oval Avenida.

The original concrete street signs, benches, and lamp posts on Avenida Ámsterdam in Mexico City’s La Condesa neighborhood date to the 1920's.

Two dog owners chatting in the camellón of Avenida Ámsterdam

I loved this elegant commercial building that sits on Avenida Ámsterdam

Ojo de Agua Condesa is known for its jugos (fresh fruit juices), aguas de frescas, & licuados (yogurt-based smoothies). It is located just behind one of the Avenida Ámsterdam roundabouts, La Glorieta Citlaltépetl. It also serves healthy casual breakfasts & lunches.

The elegant Restaurante Nonna, also located on Avenida Ámsterdam, is rated as La Condesa''s 2024 Top Italian restaurant

Frutos Prohibidos, located on Avenida Ámsterdam, is similar to Ojos de Agua. It serves casual healthy breakfasts & lunches, & is known for its fresh fruit juices & aguas de frescas.

A shot of Pat, standing in front of Restaurante Matisse. Located on Avenida Ámsterdam in a house dating back to 1932, Restaurante Matisse serves home-style European and Mexican cuisine. The restaurant opened its doors in 1996. The owners renovated an abandoned house, preserving its original architecture, including doors, raised walls, beautiful stained-glass windows, and wooden doors with glass panels. The restaurant has a beautiful interior patio for breakfast, lunch, and dinner outdoors without the inconvenience of the street. They are open daily from 8:00 am - 11:00 pm

Next door to Restaurante Matisse is their Pastry Shop. Matisse's Viennese pastries are 100% homemade. The cakes are made with European recipes and come in a variety of flavors, including chocolate, truffle, and apricot. To accompany them, the pastry shop offers a variety of coffees, highlighting the latte, the Matisse frappé, hot and cold cappuccinos, Americano and Espresso.

Milo's Bistro is a chic, little deco-style sidewalk cafe with fantastic food, cappuccinos, and ambiance. It is located on the corner of Avenida Ámsterdam & Calle Celaya. You can stop for a cup of coffee or drink a delicious glass of wine...and definitely try their Vietnamese Rolls!

A shot of Pat, walking over to look at Frëims Condesa's menu. Frëims Condesa is a small, laid-back, airy hipster style restaurant located inside a home from the 1920's on Avenida Ámsterdam. It serves breakfast eggs, waffles, & a large selection of artisan coffee, plus comfort lunch fare. It was Mexico's first restaurant to offer waffle sandwiches. Brought back from a prolonged state of abandonment, the house was restored by the studio, Arqmov Workshop. They respected the building’s original state, and left the windows, pavement, wood paneling, and internal subdivisions intact. There is a juice bar, a café area with a bookshop, & a small, private dining area with exposed brick walls. The garden has a series of wooden benches and rows of light bulbs hanging from its external walls, reflecting in a small pond left there in memory of the fountain that used to bubble in the courtyard. Frëims Condesa is not only ideal for a good meal, but perfect for small parties, a book presentation, or acoustic music.

Pasteleria Tout Chocolat

Our first stop on Avenida Ámsterdam was the Pasteleria Tout Chocolat, a store that has been on my "bucket list" for quite a while. I had read about it several years ago. They specialize and are known for their artisanal chocolates, desserts, espresso drinks, & cafe dishes. Luis Robledo opened his first Tout Chocolat store in 2006 in Plaza Loreto , south of Mexico City. He now has 3 stores located in different parts of the city. They are touted for having some of the best chocolates in all of Mexico City.

Owner & Chocolatier Luis Robledo began his career in New York City in 1998, where he worked for Daniel Boulud at his renown 3-Michelin Star restaurant, "Daniel." Once in New York, he completed the Professional Pastry Arts program at the French Culinary Institute.

In 2000, Robledo moved to Paris to perfect his knowledge of French cuisine & pastry-making. It was in France that he began working with chocolate, and was trained as a chocolatier by the L'école du Grand Chocolat team, led by Frédéric Bau. Robledo has been named one of the top 10 chocolatiers in North America twice.

For 4 years, he was the head of Barry Callebaut's Chocolate Academy Center in Mexico City, where he traveled the world, sharing his knowledge of chocolate and pastry.

A shot of the exterior of La Condesa's Pasteleria Tout Chocolat, located on Avenida Ámsterdam.

A shot of some of Tout Chocolat's artisanal chocolates

Roundabouts (Glorietas) on Avenida Ámsterdam

Roundabouts (traffic circles) in Mexico City, especially those on Avenida Paseo de la Reforma & Avenida Ámsterdam, are worthy of attention and a visit. Most often, they are park-like mini-plazas, usually with a monument, sculpture or fountain, or something of note in the center. They are called "glorietas" in Spanish.

There are 3 glorietas associated Avenida Ámsterdam; they date from the 1925 founding (and layout) of the Condesa neighborhood. The layout of the entire neighborhood was the work of architect José Luis Cuevas Pietrasanta, who would also later design the original Lomas de Chapultepec. The 3 glorietas are named for the highest mountain peaks in Mexico: Popocatépetl, Ixtaccíhuatl (more commonly known as Pico de Orizaba), & Citlaltépetl. La Glorieta Popocatépetl is in the northern section of Avenida Ámsterdam, while La Glorieta Ixtaccíhuatl and La Glorieta Citlaltépetl are in the southern part of the avenue.

Glorieta Popocatépetl is the most difficult of the 3 glorietas to find, as it is a terminal roundabout actually located on the brief, 2-block Calle Popocatépetl. Basically, it is a plaza at the intersection of Calle Popocatépetl & Avenida Álvaro Obregón at the very northern bend of the old Hipódromo Racetrack. The  centerpiece of the plaza features an Art Deco fountain completed in 1927 by Architect José Gómez Echeverría. In the middle of the fountain is a dome or cupola held up by 4 white columns, all decorated with tiles. On the top of the dome, there is a hole that, allows sunlight to enter the structure at its peak (zenith), illuminating it for a moment. This fountain is popularly known as "La Bomba" (The Pump), and is one of the symbols for the residents of La Condesa.

A view of the Plaza Popocatépetl with the fountain, affectionately known as "La Bomba," as its centerpiece . You can see that people are using this plaza like a park

These original concrete street signs on Avenida Ámsterdam date back to the 1920's.

A close-up of the cupola, which is at the center of the fountain in La Glorieta Popocatépetl. On the top of the dome, there is a hole that, allows sunlight to enter the structure at its peak (zenith), illuminating it for a moment.

The other 2 smaller traffic circles, La Glorieta Citlaltépetl & Las Glorieta Iztlacihuatl, are on the ovular Avenida Ámsterdam to the south. In the center of Glorieta Citlaltépetl is a fountain known as "El Chorro," from the center of which a jet of water spouts from inside a concrete rock, simulating a volcanic rock.

A shot of Glorieta Citlaltépetl with a fountain, known as "El Chorro," in the center of the roundabout. In the middle of the fountain is a jet of water that sprouts from inside a concrete rock, simulating a volcanic rock.

Plaza Ixtaccíhuatl has a beautiful palm tree in the center with 4 pools of water surrounding it. We encountered a number of people sitting & enjoying this simple, but beautiful roundabout (glorieta).

A shot of Glorieta Ixtaccíhuatl with its beautiful palm tree in the center & 4 pools of water surrounding it. Notice all of the people, who have stopped to enjoy this little plaza

A closer shot of one of the 4 pools surrounding Glorieta Ixtaccíhuatl's palm tree centerpiece. Note that the bottom of the pools are tiled, & that there are 2 small fountains of water spraying forth in each pool.

El Parque México

Parque México is a large urban park, located in La Condesa's Colonia Hipódromo. It was the first modern park in Mexico City, created with an architectural design. It copied many of the elements of European gardens, such as ponds and walkways. The park contains a number of fountains, ponds, waterfalls, and light posts that simulate tree trunks.

There were these covered seating area with  simulated tree trunks for support scattered throughout Parque México

Pat, walking along one of the walkways in El Parque México 

The layout for the park & most of the Condesa neighborhood was designed by Architect José Luis Cuevas Pietrasanta in 1925. He had already designed the nearby Parque España in 1921, & would also later design the original Lomas de Chapultepec. The neighborhood was actually actually built around the park. La Condesa was Mexico City’s first planned urban development. 

José Luis Cuevas Pietrasanta, the visionary architect behind the Hipódromo Condesa neighborhood, was heavily inspired by British urban planner Ebenezer Howard’s Garden City movement.

Howard pioneered the innovative city development concept with the aim of creating urban environments that were both sustainable & peaceful, combining the best aspects of city life & nature. Cuevas Pietrasanta used these principles when planning Parque México, resulting in the capital’s most progressive & successful urban development project of the 1920's. As most of the city expanded haphazardly, Hipódromo Condesa emerged as a blueprint for future use. It was the first Mexico City neighborhood, where buildings and nature were deliberately planned to coexist harmoniously, with the streets surrounding Parque México, growing outward in a circular, whimsical fashion.

More than just Parque México’s chief architect, José Luis Cuevas Pietrasanta was one of Mexico City’s most influential urban designers. Beyond Colonia Hipódromo Condesa, he designed the upscale Lomas de Chapultepec neighborhood, the Casa de José Gargollo y Garay on Paseo de la Reforma, & the Edison Building in El Centro Histórico.

Architect Leonardo Noriega and Engineer Javier Stávoli masterfully designed this 88,000-square-meter park as the crown jewel of the Hipódromo Condesa neighborhood. They took advantage of the unusually large size of the park to divide it into sections for different activities. The park was built in 1927.  

Leonardo Noriega had a knack for Art Deco, which he used when designing the striking El Foro Lindbergh amphitheater. Its geometric forms, decorative motifs, & clean lines are a testament to his artistic flair. Even though Noriega’s name is not as prominent of his contemporaries, his contribution to Parque México was profound, and helped establish Art Deco as a defining style in Mexico City’s architectural identity.

Is a park without a sculpture really a park? According to José María Fernández Urbina, the answer is no. Fernández Urbina brought his 3-dimensional expertise to the Parque México project, creating the famous Fuente de los Cántaros (Fountain of the Jugs), which remains one of the park’s most beloved features. 

Together, these 3 designers: José Luis Cuevas Pietrasanta, Leonardo Noriega, & José María Fernández Urbina not only created a beautiful green space in the heart of La Condesa, but, by blending European influences with Mexican aesthetics, the team introduced a bold cultural statement about modern Mexican identity during the period of national reinvention that followed the Mexican Revolution.

Parque México differs from other major parks in Mexico City, such as El Parque Alameda Central & Parque España. These more traditional parks have paths that cut diagonally through them, while Parque Mexico's paths are more “organic” and less rigid, wandering around the various attractions.

A shot of Parque México & its meandering paths, deep in the middle of the park

Parque México is recognized for its Art Deco architecture and decor. The houses that surround Parque México match the park’s Art Deco style. Edificio San Martín is one of the area's important architectural examples from that period. It was constructed by Mexican Architect Ernesto Buenrostro in 1931. After being almost completely in ruins, Architect Carlos Duclaud restored it, a project that took him from 1998 to 2001 to complete. 

A shot of Edificio San Martín, renown for its Art Deco architecture and decor.  Designed by Ernesto Ignacio Buenrosto, with its symmetrical entrance and canopy on Avenida México, it perfectly characterizes the Art Deco style.

Officially named El Parque General San Martín, after the Argentine liberator, José de San Martín, today it is called El Parque México, deriving its name from the avenue that surrounds it: Avenida México.

Parque México functions as an urban forest within Mexico City. The park’s canopy includes majestic jacarandas, ash trees, palms, firs, & native ahuehuetes (Montezuma cypresses), many of which have been present for centuries. It plays a vital environmental role by helping filter air pollution, reduce urban heat, & provide a habitat for wildlife. It is considered to be “lungs” of La Condesa. For residents of the surrounding high-density neighborhoods, the park offers access to nature without leaving the city.

This shot illustrates the variety of plants & trees growing in El Parque México

The park hosts various cultural events, salsa dances, neighborhood gatherings, and considered to be fashionable place to meet people. One can see children playing soccer and riding bikes, while adults stroll or exercise or just relax on the benches. Parque México is arguably one of the most visited parks in the city. Each weekend, over 10,000 visitors transform Parque México into a vibrant social hub. Locals come here for free salsa classes, zumba sessions, & impromptu performances. You can learn to roller skate or how to properly wield an LED saber there. Vendors fill the park with all sorts of delightful products — artisanal jewelry, house plants, & home decor.

Parque México’s history stretches further back than many visitors realize. The land was originally part of the Santa Catalina del Arenal Hacienda, built in 1610. Then on the outskirts of Mexico City and spanning much of what is now Condesa, Santa Catalina del Arenal Hacienda was primarily dedicated to pulque production, livestock, & fruit cultivation. Over the centuries, the hacienda changed hands several times.

By the 1700's, it fell under the ownership of the Third Countess of Miravalle, who was a descendant of Moctezuma and related to Charles II of Spain. The entire Condesa area, along with Colonia Norte, was part of a hacienda of the Countess of Miravalle. The Countess held horse races on her property, where Parque México is now. The hacienda was sold, and developed bit by bit until all that remained was the race track. When the nearest section to the track of the old hacienda was being developed, it was decided to turn the racetrack into a park, with the colonia built around it. This made some of the main streets of Colonia Hipódromo curved (those around the park/track) with others leading to the park.

In 2010, the city government installed Wi Fi service in Parque México, free for use. It is among the 600 public spaces in which the city has installed free “hotspots.”

There are several quirky Art Deco-style stone signs throughout the park, all dating to 1927, indicating the proper way to act while visiting to ensure Parque México remains well-maintained. These signs use distinctive language that not only reflects past social norms in Mexico, but also showcases how speech was used to indicate one’s social class. This feature adds character to Parque México, serving as both a practical guide and a cultural artifact. Look out for signs that say things like “Respect for trees, plants, and grass is an unequivocal sign of culture” and “Dogs seriously damage a park; bring them leashed.” (Note: Pat & I saw these types of signs in El Parque México, but, at the time, I was not aware of the history behind them, & did not take a picture of one of them. I just thought..."oh, aren't those signs quaint")

Teatro al Aire Libre Lindbergh: El Foro Lindbergh

Parque México's most prominent feature is its Teatro al Aire Libre Lindbergh (Lindbergh Open Air Theater), or more simply known as El Foro Lindbergh (Lindbergh Forum). I was absolutely taken with El Foro Lindbergh, & took many pictures of it.

The enormous, open plaza was built in 1927 by Architect Leonardo Noriega and Engineer Javier Francisco Stávoli Llamas in the Art Deco style. It boasts an amphitheater, fronted by a Art Deco sculpture, and fountain with a woman carrying 2 water vessels. It consists of 5 monumental pillars, topped with marquesinas (canopies), and surrounded by 2 serpentine pergolas. The 5 columns define the stage area, which also contains a 4-section relief / mural by Roberto Montenegro, called “Alegoría al Teatro. The theater is named after the famous American aviator, Charles Lindbergh. Local legend says that Lindbergh himself purportedly landed an airplane in this very location in December 1927.

A shot of El Teatro al Aire Libre Lindbergh with the enormous open plaza in front of it

A close-up of the El Foro's 5 columns, topped with marquesinas (canopies). Note: The woman on the stage in the bikini was pitching a free yoga class. The catch was that the class would be taking place immediately on the cement stage in the blazing hot sun. Even if I had my yoga mat with me, I would not have taken her up on that offer.

A shot of the bronze sign for El Teatro al Aire Libre Lindbergh, otherwise known as El Teatro Coronel Lindbergh

I believe that this is one of the 4-section relief / murals by Roberto Montenegro, called “Alegoría al Teatro."

A view of the side of the enormous plaza of El Teatro al Aire Libre Lindbergh. You can see the vastness of the plaza, a& the blooming blooming bougainvillea a top the serpentine pergola.

One of the entrances to El Foro Lindbergh

A view of El Foro Lindberg from the outside. This photo was taken while approaching El Foro Lindberg from inside the park.

A shot of one of the serpentine pergolas that surrounds El Foro Lindbergh, topped with blooming bougainvillea

Pat, sitting on one of the park benches, checking his phone while waiting for me to finish taking photographs of El Foro Lindbergh

Fuente de los Cántaros (Fountain of the Water Vessels / Jars)

At the entrance to the Teatro Lindbergh, there is also a stunning Art Deco fountain (Fuente de los Cántaros) with a sculpture of a nude indigenous woman with a cántaro (large water vessel) under each arm. Fuente de los Cántaros faces onto Calle Michoacán, which divides the park. It serves as El Parque México's central monument. Locally, the sculpture is referred to as La Muñeca de los Cántaros or the Mujer de los Cántaros. The statue has come to symbolize the Mexican people (Mexicayotl or Mexicanidad) before The Conquest.

Fuente de los Cántaros was created by Sculptor José María Fernández Urbina in 1927; Fernández Urbina is probably most famous for having restored the El Ángel de la Independencia after the 1958 earthquake. Fuente de los Cántaros captures the essence of Mexico’s modernist movement, while paying homage to traditional water carriers. Water used to flow out of the 2 cántaros. The statue is 3 meters in height, & made of concrete.

Urbina's model for the sculpture was Luz Jiménez, an indigenous Nahua woman, who also modeled for Diego Rivera, David Alfaro Siqueiros, & famous photographer Tina Modotti. Jiménez was considered the "It Girl" archetype for the Mexican indigenous woman.

A shot of the stunning La Fuente de los Cántaros

La Fuente de los Cántaros from the side view

Fuente El Reloj (The Fountain of the Clock Tower)

On the south side of Parque México (Calle Michoacán divides the park),  there is a distinctive Art Deco clock with ironwork and bells to mark the hour, surrounded by a fountain. Built in 1927, this elegant timepiece rises majestically among the jacaranda trees. It is popularly known as Fuente El Reloj. In the past, the clock tower played classical music to mark the hour.  

Originally El Reloj served as a radio which had a seating area, where people gathered to listen to the popular stations of the time. It was later converted into a fountain, and remains so today.

A view of La Fuente El Reloj

A closer look at El Reloj

Lago de los Patos (Duck Pond or Lake)

Ducks, swans, & various waterfowl inhabit the small lake in the middle of the park, while trees and plants abound. The area offers a peaceful retreat where families gather to feed the birds and enjoy the natural setting. You will find Lebanese Cypress, mimosas, palms and bamboo growing in this area.

A view of Parque México's El Lago de los Patos

A close-up view of a number of the ducks swimming on El Lago de los Patos

Audioramas: A Quiet Space Incorporated into the Public Realm

One of the spaces that I was most taken with in Parque México was its Audiorama...so much so that I would love to see them catch on, & become a part of American city parks.

In a hidden corner of Parque México, there is a space specifically designed to be a quiet space for people to come & utilize throughout the day. This community area is managed and monitored by the city. There is a strictly-enforced silence policy with city staff on site to enforce it, & ensure that the space is always quiet & peaceful. The audiorama feels like you have been transported to idyllic world.  You can borrow books from their small mini-library. There are plenty of lounges and chairs (including a number of highly sought-after ultra-comfortable hanging egg chairs) scattered about the area. Calming meditative music is piped in & plays through speakers hanging in the trees. Entering the space felt sacred, as if I were entering a temple. You truly feel like you have been transported to some idyllic world.

People enjoying the quiet space in Parque México's Audiorama

A man enjoying a swing in another part of Parque México's Audiorama

People enjoying the tranquility next to the man-made stream, which meanders through the Audiorama. Unfortunately, the stream was "dry", when we were there. Mexico is experiencing a severe & widespread multi-year drought & is facing water scarcity & agricultural concerns. Thus, many of its fountains & water features are "dry."

I wanted so much to sit in one of these highly sought-after ultra-comfortable hanging egg chairs, but they were always occupied

 I had never heard of audioramas, or encountered one before this visit to Mexico City City...& then to find them at all 3 parks that we visited was like a gift from Heaven! During our 2-week visit to Mexico City, we found audioramas in Parque México, Parque Espana, & Bosque Chapultepec...all with the same mission, but each had its own individual character & setting. We spent time in all 3 of the audioramas. They were all heavily utilized (in that all of the highly sought-after seating were always taken; I never did get to sit in one of ultra-comfortable hanging egg chairs). I absolutely fell in love with the concept. Now I want the City of Keizer to design & create Audioramas in Keizer Rapids Park and in the Riverfront Park.

I became so excited by the idea that I read up a little on audioramas. They are designed to encourage mindfulness and contemplation, with its focus on silence and reflection. Piped-in peaceful music enhances the tranquil atmosphere with carefully-curated soundscapes and artistic audio installations that blend with the natural surroundings. Often there is a mini-library with books to borrow. It is a place for people to rest & enjoy the harmony of music & the sounds of the trees. Preservation of natural soundscapes and acoustic ecology are important considerations when designing an audiorama. A compact, naturally-shaped hidden position with trees and rocks helps block out outside noises, & provide a comfortable cocoon-like space perfect for meditation.

Within urban settings, artificially-created sounds like street traffic and aircraft overflights can negatively affect the character of public spaces. When it comes to designing public space, one needs to focus on a multisensorial perception of space, including the auditory sense (i.e., what should a public space sound like?).

Such areas are rare to find in cities, and even hard to find in our daily lives. Even if we find an escape to a park or other quiet space, there is often the constant hum of motors, horns, and the beeps of smartphones, intruding on the silence.

Constant exposure to noise can trigger anxiety & stress, impact our ability to sleep & even negatively impact our physical health. We have become so accustomed to the daily noise that fills our lives that we often do not realize it until we find ourselves in a genuinely quiet place like an Audiorama.

Nature can offer a reprieve from the manufactured noise of cities. This means treating green spaces as essential to cities, & acknowledging that we must consider the impacts that noise has on our green spaces. A city park surrounded by highways and bombarded by noise pollution will not provide a reprieve from the stresses created by the city.

Noise is ubiquitous in our contemporary lives. Spaces like the audioramas in Mexico City provide a reprieve from the bombardment of city noise and the busy-ness of our daily lives. We must work to ensure that such spaces are not reserved for the privileged who can afford to escape to the countryside or parks beyond the city limits, but are available and accessible by everyone. Incorporating quiet spaces into city planning processes can change our human experience in the city. Imagine walking down the street and not being bombarded by the constant noise of traffic or the visual distraction of billboards overhead. Finding quiet has become a luxury, but it does not need to be available only to the wealthy. Audioramas showcase how easily a quiet space can be incorporated into the public realm.

Chef Ricardo Muñoz Zurita & His Azul Restaurant Group

While preparing for our journey to Mexico City's Centro Histórico District in 2022, I read about Chef and culinary historian Ricardo Muñoz Zurita, who is known for his thoughtful takes on traditional Mexican recipes from all around Mexico. His foods are always prepared and presented with respect for their origins. He was one of the leaders in reviving the culinary scene in Mexico City. Chef Zurita specializes in menus of traditional regional Mexican cuisine, based oftentimes on forgotten recipes that he has gathered through his field research. He has re-introduced many now-famous dishes that were once completely unknown to most of the country, among others: Pescado Tikin Xic, venison salpicón, black mole, & white pipián. The Pescado Tikin Xic, recipe comes from the pueblo of Chuburna in the Yucatan. A filet of fish is wrapped around frijoles flavored with achiote, a flavoring derived from a Mexican shrub. It is garnished on top with avocado, diced tomatoes, & onions. Under the fish is a base of delicious fried plátanos.

In 1996, Chef Zurita founded Café Azul y Oro, which was located at the very prestigious university of Mexico City: UNAM, inside their Cultural Center

It was here that he initiated the concept of a Mexican restaurant that rescued ancestral recipes.

Zurita now runs a multi-restaurant group known for its reverence of traditional Mexican cooking in all its infinite variety. He currently has 3 fine dining restaurants in the Mexico City area: Azul Condesa, Azul Historico, & Azulísimo. One of the things that I really like about Chef Zurita's menus is that they are seasonal & themed, in that his ever-changing menus celebrates a number of gastronomical festivals throughout the year.

One of my goals is to eventually eat at all of his restaurants, & I absolutely want to try their duck mole. With that goal in mind, I convinced Pat, while on our way to explore Parque España, to walk a few blocks out of our way to Azul Condesa, which is located on Avenida Nuevo León, so I could check out their restaurant & menu. It has a very intimate patio, as well as 2 floors of dining. After his humble Café Azul y Oro began receiving rave reviews, Chef Zurita opened Azul Condesa in 2010. I wish that we could have eaten here this trip, but it will have to wait until our next trip.

A shot of Pat, perusing Azul Condesa's menu

A view of the interior patio of Azul Condesa

Dining at Ricardo Muñoz Zurita's Azul Histórico was one of the highlights of my previous 2022 trip to Mexico City. The food was not only fabulous, but I was absolutely enchanted with its ambience. It is located in the heart of Centro Histórico on Calle Isabella La Católica between the busy pedestrian corridor (called an "andador peatonal" in Spanish), Avenida Francisco I. Madero, & Calle 16 de Septiembre . It is on the ground floor of the Downtown Mexico Hotel, which is the former Palace of the Counts of Miravalle. The restaurant is nestled in the open-air courtyard of the former 17th-century colonial palace that was once inhabited by descendants of the Emperor Montezuma. Walking through the main entrance alone is a sight to behold. The former 17th century palace has old, carved wooden doors that open to a hall with a very high-ceiling. The hall ends in a magical open-air courtyard filled with tall trees, that form a green canopy overhead, & are decorated with small lights. Exposed brick, stone walls, & carved stone columns surround the space.  Rough-hewn candle-lit tables set beneath tall trees. (Note: There is also an electric retractable roof to shield diners from inclement weather.)

As you enter, women are busy, making tortillas by hand, & cooking them on a traditional comal in the corner. On the tables, small, hand-carved bowls, made from calabash gourds, are found beside each place setting. The bowls are the traditional containers used in the Mexican state of Oaxaca for drinking mezcal, of which the restaurant carries several different types.

Eating at Azul Histórico was truly one of the most romantic dinners that I have ever had. Chef Zurita opened Azul Histórico in 2012 in this beautifully restored building, just 2 years after opening Azul Condesa.

A view of Azul Histórico's open courtyard in the 17th-century colonial palace, once inhabited by descendants of the Emperor Montezuma. It is one of the most romantic & magical places that I I eaten.

Azulísimo is the newest of Chef Zurita's Azul Restaurants. It offers items from the cuisine from ancient Mexico City, showcasing old and authentic dishes, such as Huauzontles, Peneques, Huaraches, and many other dishes native to the nation's capital. (I also hope to eat at Azulísimo on my next trip to Mexico City.)

In addition to his multi-restaurant enterprise, Chef Ricardo Muñoz Zurita has also written 11 well-regarded Mexican cookbooks, including the "Diccionario Enciclopédico de Gastronomía Mexicana," which took 12 years to complete;  he did all the research himself.

Parque España

Parque España is located just 2 blocks northwest of Parque México, between Avenida Nuevo León, Calle Sonora, & Calle España. However, we took a slight detour, so that I could see Restaurante Azul Condesa; then we continued on & walked several blocks to the much smaller & a few years older Parque España, which Architect Architect José Luis Cuevas Pietrasanta designed in 1921. The park was once the entrance to the now-defunct Hipódromo de la Condesa (horse race track)

Parque España was inaugurated on September 21, 1921, to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the end of the Mexican War of Independence. Mayor Herminio Pérez Abreuan planted an ahuehuete tree (also known as a Montezuma Cypress) in the park as part of the ceremony, and you can still find that now-over-100 year old ahuehuete tree in the park today. This small 30,000 square meter "lung" is a one of the green spaces that gives life to the La Condesa neighborhood. Parque España has become an oasis for the families and young people who live & work in this area. You will often see residents jogging, walking their pets, eating ice cream, watching the sunset, or reading the paper in the park. They enjoy & make use of the children's play areas, the outdoor gym, the exclusive pet area, the "Carlos Fuentes" public library, its sculptures, & its fountains.

A shot of a tall, old palm tree in Parque España

The park contains an amazing sculpture, the "Monumento a Presidente Lázaro Cárdenas," which was  donated in 1974 by a group of Spanish Republican refugees in Mexico. The monument is an abstract representation of the open & outstretched hand that Presidente Lázaro Cárdenas del Ríos extended to Spanish exiles during their Civil War. The hand is half-open, & has square fingers at a 45º angle. It has a cube-like structure with a bas-relief image of Cárdenas & a plaque in what would be the palm, which is accessed by a staircase that represents the wrist. The monument was inaugurated in 1974 in El Parque España. It is the work of sculptor Julián Martínez.  Maybe because of the political turmoil going on in the States presently, & our harsh & unjust treatment of immigrants of all races, this sculpture really spoke to me.

A shot of Parque España's "Monumento a Presidente Lázaro Cárdenas," which is a an abstract representation of the open & outstretched hand that Presidente Lázaro Cárdenas del Ríos extended to Spanish exiles during their Civil War.

A view of the cube-like structure with a bas-relief image of Cárdenas & a plaque in what would be the palm of his hand

A side view of the cube-like structure in the abstract palm of Presidente Lázaro Cárdenas' hand

A view of the a bas-relief image of Presidente Lázaro Cárdenas del Ríos & the plaque in what would be the palm of his hand,

A shot of the 2024 plaque from the Government of Spain, stating: "The Government of Spain recognizes in this park the Republican exiles who kept alive the hope for freedom, democracy, and justice in Spain."

Parque España also has a small lake with a rustic cement bridge that gives the impression of being made of wood. Normally the small lake has ducks swimming in it, but the lake was dry" when we visited, due to Mexico's multi-year drought & ensuing water shortage.

The waterway & small duck pond in Parque Parque España , that was "dry", when we visited, due to Mexico's multi-year severe drought & water shortage

A bridge across the waterway in Parque España. Note that the railings on the bridge, resemble wood railing, but they are made of cement.

Parque España also has an audiorama, albeit a bit smaller than Parque México's audiorama. A bamboo fence helps hide & separate Parque España's audiorama. At the entrance of the audiorama, a trunk with books welcomes visitors who want to enjoy reading in one of the garden's many seating options. This space is also specifically designed to be a quiet space for people to come & utilize throughout the day. The city also manages and monitors this audiorama. There is a strictly-enforced silence policy with city staff on site to enforce it, & ensure that the space is always quiet & peaceful. You can borrow books from their small mini-library. There are plenty of lounges and chairs (including a number of highly sought-after ultra-comfortable hanging egg chairs) scattered about the area. In between the trees and flowers that fill the area, small speakers play calming meditative music that helps block out outside street noises. Many of the materials used to build the audiorama were remnants from other city projects, including tiles that were used in the Plaza de Santo Domingo and railings from the remodel of a market in the Colonia Doctores neighborhood. The space is a relaxing & quiet place to read,just reflect, or meditate, contrasting completely with the busy avenues that surround it. The best time to visit is late in the afternoon when the colored lights light up the trees.

A cute little man enjoying the tranquility of Parque España's Audtiorama

You can see people enjoying the Audiorama, even though the waterway is "dry"

A shot of the trunk, where they store the free books to read at night

The bookshelf at El Parque España's Audiorama

Another shot of the different seating areas in Parque España's Audiorama

A shot of another person enjoying one of the highly sought-after ultra-comfortable hanging egg chairs

Yet another shot of another seating area in Parque España's Audiorama

A shot of the flowers blooming in Parque España's Audiorama

The Biblioteca Carlos Fuentes ("Carlos Fuentes Public Llibrary"), which was inaugurated in 1955, is also located in Parque España.

Additionally, Parque España is surrounded by many buildings with a great architectural variety, predominantly avant-garde, although the neighborhood is best known for its art deco and art nouveau buildings. Opposite the park, on Calle Guadalajara, is the home that once belonged to Fernando Torreblanca, who served several of the presidents of Mexico in the 1920's (Presidente Álvaro Obregón, Presidente Plutarco Elías Calles, & Presidente Emilio Portes Gil). The beautiful building, built in 1922, was designed by Engineer Manuel Luis Stampa.

Today, Parque España is colloquially known as "the dog park". It also features nighttime lighting, fountains, a children's play area, exercise equipment, free internet service, Ecobici stations, & a cell phone charging area. It was also one of the first parks to offer compost bins for pet waste.

Something unique happens in the parks of Condesa that I had never seen before,

Each weekday, hundreds of dogs hang out in the park all day with dog trainers and dog sitters, while their owners are at work. 

Both Parque Mexico and Parque España have a zona canina (canine zone), which is a fully enclosed area, where the dogs can run free and play off-lead.  

The completely-fenced Área Canina of El Parque España

Another shot of the completely-fenced Área Canina del Parque España

Dogs hang out in the park all day with dog trainers and dog sitters, while their owners are at work. This shot was taken at Parque México