While on our recent 2-week visit to Mexico City, we tended to have snacks, instead of lunch.
Our favorite snack was getting an helado or a nieve, sometimes in a park, & sometimes in an ice cream shop. Pat preferred coffee or chocolate helados, while I definitely had a preference for fruit-flavored nieves (basically a sorbet).
We tried the small ice cream shop closest to our apartment first, Nieve de Olla. It is a Mexican ice cream shop that does not use dairy or refined sugars, making all of their products vegan and gluten-free. One of their most important pillars is taking responsibility for their actions toward the environment, health, and society, so they strive to be 100% zero waste. However, we ended up preferring our neighborhood Nevería Roxy on Avenida Tamaulipas, which was a couple of blocks further down, right across from the neighborhood church.
Nevería Roxy: An Old-Fashion Soda Fountain Shop with 11 Branches in Mexico City
Nevería Roxy is big in Mexico City; there are 11 sucursales (branches) scattered throughout Mexico City. They have been in business for over 75 years. It is definitely one of the most popular ice cream shops in Mexico City. Our neighborhood shop was open from 11:00 am - 8:00 pm, daily, & there was almost always a line out front. Nevería Roxy is an old-fashion soda fountain shop with a huge number of flavors of helados & nieves. They also serve sundaes, banana splits, shakes, ice cream sodas, & malteadas (just like soda fountain shops used to do in the States). I counted, & at our neighborhood Nevería Roxy, there were 17 different flavors of nieves and 19 different flavors of helados.
It all began in 1946, when Don Carlos Gallardo & his wife, Doña María Luisa Rubio, opened the first Nevería Roxy in the Condesa neighborhood. While Don Carlos served patrons, his wife prepared the ice creams, nieves, and jams. Today, Nevería Roxy, controlled by the successors of Don Carlos and Doña María Luisa, is still a family business
"Bucket-List " Visit to Ojo de Agua Behind the Picturesque Glorieta Citaltépetl just off the Crcular Tree-lined Avenida Ámsterdam
One of my other "bucket list" snacks for this trip was to frequent an Ojos de Agua in Mexico City , and have one of their Classic Juices (of which they have 27 different kinds), Aguas de Fresca (of which they have 20 different flavors), or one of their 12 different extracted juices. They also make wonderful licuados (yogurt-based smoothies) in many different flavors. Additionally they are also known for their casual healthy breakfasts and lunches, always based on the freshest and most delicious fruits and vegetables available.
The founder named the café after Ojo de Agua, the small town built around a freshwater spring pool that is located in the state of Michoacán, where the family is from. Their ethos “living a healthy life, in the company of people we love, in harmony with nature and strengthening habits which provide the body with tools to be fulfilled” still rings true. The first location opened in the upscale Polanco neighborhood 14 years ago, and the brand has since expanded to 23 locations in Mexico City, as well as a smattering of other scattered throughout Mexico.
The clean and simple logo (a white background with turquoise type and Fanta-blue droplets of water) offer a nod to the town’s namesake spring and can be seen under the awning.
Pat & I visited the one that is situated behind the picturesque Glorieta Citaltépetl (a roundabout) that is just off the circular tree-lined Avenida Ámsterdam.
Next time we are in Mexico City, i want to eat both breakfast & lunch at an Ojo de Agua, as well taste more of their jugos & aguas de fresca. I also still have yet to have one of their delicious-sounding licuados, so that remains on my "bucket list" also. There is another place very similar in concept to Ojo de Agua, called "Frutos Prohibidos". There are 13 different Frutos Prohibidos scattered about Mexico City; i would like to eat breakfast & lunch there also, as well as sample their juices.
Across from our beloved Nevería Roxy was a curious taco truck (literally operating out of the back of a old pick-up truck) that Pat spied one day. We would see it every time that we frequented Nevería Roxy (which was often). One day, we decided that we would give it a try & eat lunch there. Pat ordered 2 Huevos con Arroz- Milanesa street tacos , while I ordered a Carnita & a Bistec a la Mexicana street taco. To be honest, the tacos were not very good, though we always saw people standing around the truck...but it was an interesting experience.
Pastries to Die For at the Famous Pastelería Suiza
I had read alot about the famous Pastelería Suiza before we made the trip. It was on my "bucket list" of bakeries to try while in Mexico City. It is located right across from the Parque España in Hipodromo Condesa. Pastelería Suiza, which translates to "Swiss Pastry Shop," has been a neighborhood institution since 1942, serving a wide variety of European-style tarts, pastries, cakes, and breads, including Easter cakes, Yule logs, & Swiss rolls , and not much has changed since.
A pastry chef by trade, Jaime Bassegoda arrived in Veracruz in September 1942, on the final voyage of the Nyassa River, bringing refugees from the Spanish Civil War. His sister, Ana, had been in Mexico City for a couple of years and had found the perfect location for Jaime to open a bakery: in the then-fashionable neighborhood of Condesa, a space right across from Parque España. Bassegoda did not think twice: he only had time to buy an oven, some pots, and a couple of sacks of flour. On October 2, he opened Pastelería Suiza in the same location that still houses it, more than 70 years later.
People often asked him why he named it "Pastelería Suiza," and he would reply that everything in Switzerland was well done, everything was perfect. In reality, Jaime was a little Swiss, as well as a little Catalan. His father was the son of a Swiss mother, and he himself had lived in the canton of Geneva for most of his life.
A few years after opening the bakery, Jaime married Estela, a creative, sociable, and extremely hard-working woman. She implemented the brand, and presented the face everyone associates with the bakery for almost 50 years. A new generation is now at the helm of the bakery, with the same dedication, care, and commitment that has characterized it all these years.
It can get slammed around holidays like Día de Muertos or Día de Reyes in Pastelería Suiza , when people line up out the door for pan de muerto or rosca de reyes. Definitely head here for a classic concha, oreja, or polvorón. Unfortunately, there is no seating or coffee available at Pastelería Suiza; it is strictly take-out. Like many Mexican bakeries, you get a try & tongs, & then choose your bread and pastries from the pastry cases. You then take your items to the wrapping station, pick up your ticket, pay at the cashier, and then go back for your package of baked goods.
I was in 7th heaven in Pastelería Suiza. There were of all kinds. I must have walked around looking at & taking pictures all of the pastries , cakes , and baked goods for over a half an hour
Good Coffee & French Pastries At La Balance Pastelería
Pat wanted a cup of coffee to go with his pastry, so we went next door to the French bakery, La Balance Pastelería, which served good coffee. The chic design of La Balance Pastelería featured furniture by industrial designer Luis Mercado, & it is decorated with stenciled drawings of culinary equipment on chalk board. Their pastries were delicious The chef / owner Alain Dubernard is a teacher at the Culinary Institute of America; and it shows in his attention to detail.
Visiting the Calle Puebla Satellite Bakery of the Internationally- Known Panadería Rosetta
On the day that Pat & I explored Colonia La Roma Norte, we passed by one of renown Chef Elena Reygadas' 4 satellite panaderías, the one on Calle Puebla. Like the original bakery on Calle Colima (which is across the street from her Michelin-star restaurant), her 4 satellite bakeries are all called Panadería Rosetta. The one on Calle Puebla has a very small, unassuming storefront, but the same exceptional pastries & without the wait. The Calle Puebla location maintains the same rustic-chic aesthetic, but offers a slightly more relaxed atmosphere. Both venues maintain identical quality standards, using the same recipes and techniques that have made the bakery famous. The primary difference lies in the crowd size, making the Calle location a hidden gem for those in the know. (For those not in the know, it may be a slight letdown after reading all of the hype.)
In retrospect, we probably should have gotten up early one morning (they open at 7:00 am), & made the trek to the original bakery on Calle Colima first...the famous location that regularly sees long queues, stretching down the street. The original bakery ha an intimate setting, with weathered walls and vintage tiles, creating an atmosphere that feels both historic and contemporary. The scent of butter and coffee greets you at the door, with the the display cases full of an array of perfectly crafted pastries that make the wait worthwhile.
At the heart of Panadería Rosetta’s fame lies their signature Rol de Guayaba, which has has earned its place as one of Mexico City’s most coveted food items. It bridges the gap between traditional Mexican flavors and French pastry techniques. The guava, a fruit deeply rooted in Mexican culinary tradition, is transformed into something entirely new yet somehow familiar. Their impressive array of pastries features everything from traditional French croissants to innovative Mexican-inspired creations. Their Berlinesas (Mexican-style filled doughnuts) are lighter and less sweet than traditional doughnuts, with fillings that change seasonally to reflect available ingredients. Sweet options include chocolate-laden morning buns, fruit-studded danishes, and their interpretation of traditional Mexican pan dulce.
Chef Reygadas' breads are equally impressive, from her crusty sourdough loaves to delicate brioche. Her sourdough starter had been fermenting for over 15 years years.
Panadería Rosetta has invested as much thought in their drinks as their pastries. The Flat White, in particular, can hold its own against any specialty coffee shop in the city. Their hot chocolate is made with high-quality Mexican cacao.
Their breakfasts are also an experience. Their Croque Monsieur stands out. They also have an array of fresh pastries, eggs Benedict variations, and Mexican-inspired breakfast items, all served in a cozy setting. Panadería Rosetta has gained an international profile, despite its small size. Celebrities , like Harry Styles and Dua Lipa, have made their way to Panadería Rosetta.
It is best to visit Panadería Rosetta on a weekday morning (before 9:00 am) in order to skip the notorious lines that form later in the day.
Owner & Head Chef Elena Reygadas studied gastronomy at the International Culinary Center, a French Culinary Institute in New York, and thereafter spent 4 years working at Giorgio Locatelli's Italian restaurant, Locanda Locatelli, in London. Her love of bread and baking was born at the International Culinary Center. She received the 2014 Latin America's Best Female Chef Award from the San Pellegrino World's 50 Best organization. The British magazine, Restaurant, has twice ranked Restaurant Rosetta on its list of the World's Best Restaurants (at number 34 in 2024, & number 49 in 2023), and Reygadas received their Best Female Chef of 2023 award. Her work across different aspects of gastronomic culture is part of what earned her the title of The World’s Best Female Chef 2023. Rosetta was also awarded one Michelin star in 2024 in the first Michelin Dining Guide, covering restaurants in Mexico.
The panadería was originally inside her Restaurante Rosetta on Calle Colima. Early on, neighbors would come knock at the door in the morning to ask for breads. The place that would become the original panadería was a small gallery across the street from the restaurant. Reygadas told the owner of the building that she would be interested in the space, should it become available. The space finally became available, and Reygadas opened the original Rosetta Panadería in 2012. She now has 4 panaderías scattered around the city; we only visited to the satellite panadería on Calle Puebla.
During our next visit to Mexico City, I definitely want to get up early, and have a 7:00 am breakfast at the original Panadería Rosetta on Calle Colima, across from her famous restaurant, which I loved. I think I will have their Croque Monsieur, one of their signature Rol de Guayaba, and a cup of their Mexican Hot Chocolate.
A Sunny Afternoon in Parque Alameda Central: Revisiting an Old Favorite Haunt
On the day we visited the Iglesia de San Hipólito(Iglesia de San Juan de Dios), Iglesia de la Santa Veracruz, Plaza de la Santa Veracruz, & the Museo Franz Mayer, Pat & I decided to spend some time & revisit in one our old favorite haunts in El Centro Histórico, El Parque Alameda Central, which was just across the street. El Parque Alameda Central is the oldest park in the Americas. It was just 3 blocks from Hotel Metropol, where we stayed in 2022 while exploring El Centro Histórico. Every day & many evenings we spent time in or passed through this beautiful park. It is right next to the Palacio de Bellas Artes, which I think is the most stunning building in all of Mexico City. Parque Alameda Central is probably my all-time favorite park; it is the park featured in Diego River's famous mural, "Dream of a Sunday Afternoon at Alameda Central Park", which now resides in a small museum at the edge of the park. Within Parque Alameda Central, there are several beautiful fountains & a number of amazing sculptures.
That afternoon, we did a lot of people watching...one of our favorite things to do in Parque Alameda Central, especially watching the kids swim in the fountain. We found a vendor of Tacos de Canasta, a favorite of Pat & mine. We first fell in love with them in the streets of Coyoacán; we would eat them for lunch. They are tortillas filled with various things; the most common guisos (fillings) are papas, chicharrones, adobe, and frijoles. They are consumed throughout central Mexico, especially in the large cities. They are usually sold on bicycles that circulate on the streets, in street stalls, or in parks. The name comes from the basket (canasta), in which they are placed to keep them warm. They are a simple, very inexpensive snack; the ones we bought in Parque Alameda Central were 5 for $35.00 MXN, which works out to $.34 USD a piece. Tacos de Canasta are well known to all Mexicans. Traditionally, they are served with spicy salsa, pickled chilies, & guacamole.
We also shared a bowl of esquites (deconstructed Mexican Street Corn) and a large glass of our favorite Agua de Jamaica (tea of hibiscus leaves). I wanted a paleta (a Mexican popsicle, often made with fresh fruits) , but was too full by the time we sampled all of the above items. It was a beautiful sunny day in Parque Alameda Central. The afternoon brought back many good memories of our past trip to Mexico City. All in all, it was a very relaxing & enjoyable afternoon in the park.
Supporting Our Local Neighborhood Church's Food Bazaar
One day while grabbing a nieve at Nevería Roxy, we noticed something going on outside of our neighborhood church, Parroquia de Santa Rosa de Lima, which was on the corner of Calle Alfonso Reyes & Avenida Tamaulipas. We decided to check it out. Right on the front steps to the entrance of the church, they had erected white tents with a few food stalls in the tents. I am not sure if it was a church food bazaar (if that is the case, it was very small & informal), or if a couple of the congregants needed to make some money, & the Father let them set up a couple of food booth. Anyway, Pat & I shared a glass of Agua de Jamaica and 2 street tacos. The food & the service wasn't great, but we were happy to support the local cause. It was also a sign that we were becoming more adventuresome in our street food forays (which might not be that good, since I developed a terrible case of "Montezuma's revenge", during our trip, which lasted for weeks).
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